STARTING PLANTS FROM SEED AT HOME
ISSUED: 6-81
REVISED:
J. W. Buxton, R. G. Anderson, M. L. Witt, and S. Bale
Germinating and growing vegetable and
flower seeds until they are ready to be planted in the garden will save
you money and give great satisfaction. Home germination of flower and vegetable
seed may be necessary if you plan to plant a fall garden or in order to
produce your favorite varieties of vegetables during the year.
A variety of systems can be used for
starting transplants. These systems should provide an ideal environment
for both seed germination and plant growth. They should also be dependable
when seeding a variety of plants and give consistent results.
Steps in Seed Germination
1. Seed Selection and Storage.
It is best to start with new seed,
so order only one year's supply. While some seed may be stored for several
years with slight deterioration in quality, other seed may be viable for
only one year.
2. Selection of Germination Medium.
The germination medium should be well
drained and well aerated, relatively low in fertilizer or other toxic chemicals,
and sterile (free of insects and diseases). The medium can be prepared
from a combination of peat, vermiculite, or similar ingredients. However,
since relatively little medium is needed for seed germination, it may be
best to consider purchasing a commercially packaged growing medium from
a garden supply store or greenhouse operator.
Commercially packaged growing media
(e.g., Pro-Mix, Sunshine Mix, Metro Mix, Choice Mix, Ball Growing Mix,
Jiffy Mix, Redi Earth, etc.) consist of a mixture of two or more of the
following materials: sphagnum moss peat, bark, perlite, vermiculite, coarse
sand, processed bark, or expanded shale.
These media have several advantages.
They are convenient and suitable for most plants directly from the bag.
They are also free from weeds, insects and diseases, and limestone and
fertilizers have been added to support plants for 2-6 weeks. Most are suitable
for germinating seeds as well as growing transplants.
The main disadvantage of these media
is their unavailability in small packages at garden centers and discount
stores. They are generally available at greenhouses and greenhouse suppliers
with retail outlets. Some commercial media may be too fine-textured and
will not be suitable for certain methods of germination.
3. Selection of Containers.
The container used for seed germination
may vary but it should have certain characteristics. It should be 2-3 inches
deep and sterile and it should have holes in the bottom for drainage as
well as for water uptake. A single container may be used for many cultivars
of plants. However, it would be best to germinate only one cultivar of
a certain plant in a small container so that the environment for each may
be more accurately controlled.
4. Sowing Seed.
The germination medium should be damp
before it is placed in the container. Fill the container to within about
1/2 inch of the rim. Seed should be scattered uniformly across the surface
or sown in rows at the rate of 10-20 seeds per square inch. You may choose
to give each seed more space, depending on seed size and length of time
small transplants will be left in the container. Seeds sown too thickly
will result in excessive competition among plants and spindly growth.
Small seeds, such as petunia and snapdragon,
should be left uncovered. Cover larger seeds with a thin layer of germination
medium. Finely pulverized sphagnum moss has fungicidal properties and would
be ideal for covering seed if it is available. Most seeds will germinate
in either darkness or light. The light system described later will be satisfactory
for those seeds that require light for germination. Laying a newspaper
on top of the container will provide darkness required by other seed. Special
needs regarding light and dark treatments should be stated on the seed
packet.
5. Temperature Requirements for Germination.
The ideal temperature for germination
will vary depending on the plant cultivar. However, most seeds will germinate
very well when grown within a 70-80 F range. Again, specific temperature
needs of seeds will be indicated on the seed packet (or see Table 1). If
the temperature is maintained below or above the recommended range, the
germination rate will be slower and fewer seeds will germinate. Most homes
are kept at temperatures somewhat below the recommended range but there
may be some areas in the home that are suitable. A small heating cable,
preset at 70-75 F, may be purchased at garden supply stores. The cable
should be placed in the bottom of a flat on top of 1/2-inch of sand and
then covered with an additional 1/2-inch of sand. The temperature of seed
flats set on the sand will be maintained within a suitable range. Seedlings
grown during the hot summer for your fall garden should be located wherever
optimum temperature and light are available. This may be outside in a shady
or partly-sunny location.
Table 1.- Germination Temperature.
Temperature for transplant growth and time necessary to grow various
annual flower and vegetable seeds in the home.
A. Plants whose seed germinate in 6 to 10 days at recommended temperatures.
Seedlings generally can be transplanted outdoors in 5 to 8 weeks.
Plants |
Temperature for
Seed Germination
(degrees) |
Temperatures for
Transplant Growth
(degrees)
|
DAY |
NIGHT |
Ageratum |
70-80 |
75 |
65 |
Alyssum |
70 |
60 |
50 |
Aster |
70 |
75 |
65 |
Basil |
70 |
75 |
65 |
Broccoli |
70 |
60 |
50 |
Cabbage |
70 |
60 |
50 |
Calendula |
70 |
60 |
50 |
Cauliflower |
70 |
60 |
50 |
Celosia |
70 |
75 |
65 |
Coleus |
65-75 |
75 |
65 |
Cucumbers |
80 |
75 |
65 |
Dahlia |
70 |
75 |
65 |
Dianthus |
70 |
60 |
50 |
Eggplant |
80 |
75 |
65 |
Gazania |
60 |
60 |
50 |
Lettuce |
70 |
60 |
50 |
Marigold |
70-75 |
75 |
65 |
Melons |
80 |
75 |
65 |
Peppers (Ornamental and Edible) |
80 |
75 |
65 |
Petunia |
70-80 |
60 |
50 |
Portulaca |
70 |
75 |
65 |
Squash |
80 |
75 |
65 |
Tomato |
70-80 |
75 |
65 |
Zinnia |
70 |
75 |
65 |
B. Plants whose seed germinates in 10 to 20 days at recommended temperatures.
Seedlings generally can be transplanted outdoors in 8 to 14 weeks.
Plants |
Temperature
for Seed
Germination
(degrees) |
Temperatures for
Transplant Growth
(degrees) |
DAY |
NIGHT |
Begonia |
70 |
75 |
65 |
Carnation |
70 |
60 |
50 |
Chives |
70 |
60 |
50 |
Geranium |
70 |
75 |
65 |
Impatiens |
70 |
75 |
65 |
Nicotiana |
70 |
75 |
65 |
Onion |
70 |
60 |
50 |
Pansy |
65-75 |
60 |
50 |
Rudbeckia |
70 |
75 |
65 |
Salvia |
70 |
75 |
65 |
Snapdragon |
65-75 |
60 |
50 |
Verbena |
65 |
75 |
65 |
Vinca |
70-75 |
75 |
65 |
6. Moisture and Humidity Requirements for Seed Germination.
Maintenance of a constant moisture
level and nearly 100 percent relative humidity is important to successful
seed germination. Several methods may be used.
1. Hand Watering. Low relative humidity
levels in the home during winter will dry the germination medium out quickly.
Adequate moisture can be maintained by hand watering. However, great fluctuations
in water content of the medium may occur between irrigation as it is easy
to forget to water. Hand watering with cold water also reduces germination
temperature.
2. Plastic Covering. Plastic is an
excellent way to maintain high humidity and moisture levels. After seed
is sown, a piece of clear plastic, placed over the top of the container,
will maintain a high humidity level. The container may also be placed inside
a plastic bag and sealed to prevent moisture loss. To avoid any problems,
the container should not be placed in direct sun because plastic will trap
heat and damage the seeds. Secondly, the plastic needs to be removed immediately
after emergence of seedlings to prevent leggy growth.
3. Recirculating-Bottom-Irrigation.
A recirculating-bottom-irrigation system may be used to germinate seeds.
The system has the advantage of maintaining a constant moisture content
automatically and immediately exposing seedlings to light upon emergence
from the medium, which reduces leggy growth. The system is also used to
automatically water seedlings that are still in the germination container,
until they are ready to transplant. Constant moisture conditions and a
more uniform temperature are ideal: seeds germinate very quickly.
a. Description of Recirculating-Bottom-Irrigation
System. The recirculating-bottom-irrigation system may be made any size
and out of many types of materials. A simple system could consist of a
small polystyrene container (cooler) with a small sump pump in the bottom.
The flat surface, where seed flats
are set, may be made of 1/2-inch polystyrene, a thin piece of marine plywood,
a piece of glass or other water resistant material. A pad, made of 1/4-inch
foam or fabric, such as felt, is placed on the flat surface. The pad promotes
uptake of water into the germination medium. The flat surface may be placed
on the ledge of the polystyrene container, set on jars, or suspended from
wires. A plastic tube, which carries water from the pump, is placed under
the pad and on top of the flat surface. The flat surface is tilted slightly
so water will flow across the surface and back into the water reservoir
in the bottom of the container. The water level in the container may vary
and could be maintained within an inch of the flat surface. A plastic lining
of polyethylene may be necessary to prevent leaks. Rigid or semirigid plastic
containers would not require lining. Small sump pumps (1/5 hp) are available
from discount stores, garden centers which sell supplies for fountains,
or from major retail catalogs. Plastic tubing may be purchased from hobby
supply stores or pet stores that sell fish.
b. Operation of Recirculating-Bottom-
Irrigation System. It is important that the germination medium, used in
connection with this system, be well aerated. If not, air spaces of the
medium will be filled with water resulting in poor root growth. Holes in
the bottom of the container must be in contact with the pad to assure water
uptake into the medium. The pump should be attached to a time clock which
turns it on one hour every 4-6 hours. The exact interval between irrigation
would depend upon the time required to wet the medium and the rate of water
loss from containers. The medium should be damp at all times during the
germination period. Water will become too warm for optimum seed germination
if the pump runs continuously. The water level in the reservoir should
be checked regularly to make sure water is available. Also, because of
possible changes in chemical characteristics of water, the water should
be changed completely every one to two weeks.
Algae growing on the pad does not hinder
germination and growth of seedlings but it may be unsightly and messy.
A piece of black plastic could be placed over the pad and holes cut in
the plastic to fit the bottom of the germination container. Without light
algae will not grow on the pad.
7. Maintenance of Sterile Conditions During Seed Germination.
Disease organisms (fungi and/or bacteria)
may kill seedlings during germination. Thus the medium, container, tools
and even the seed itself should be sterile. Commercial media are usually
sterile when purchased. However, if the medium comes in contact with objects
which are not sterile, it may become contaminated. Containers and tools
can be sterilized by soaking them in a 10% household bleach solution (1
1/2 tablespoon/cup of water) for 5 minutes.
The following suggestions should help
prevent disease problems:
1. Use seed treated with fungicide.
Seed packets are usually clearly marked when seeds have been treated with
fungicides. Seeds are generally brightly colored (pink, purple, green).
2. Do not plant seeds deeper than necessary.
3. Keep temperature constant.
4. Provide seedlings with adequate
ventilation.
5. Avoid overwatering.
Growing Plants After Germination
1. Light.
After germination, plants need a maximum
of light for optimum growth. Light may be natural or from fluorescent lamps.
If sunlight is used, seed flats should be placed as close to the windows
as possible without being too cool. If fluorescent lamps are used, an area
2 X 4 feet would require about four 40-watt fluorescent bulbs. Special
plant growing lamps may be used, but cool-white or warm-white fluorescent
lamps will be satisfactory. Lamps should be placed 6-12 inches above plants
and turned on at least 18 hours each day. For most plants, 24 hours of
light would be best; however, some plants (tomato, geranium) may develop
a light green appearance. A small time clock can be used to turn lights
on and off.
2. Transplanting Seedlings.
Seedlings should be transplanted to
larger containers within a few weeks after germination. Seedlings left
in the germination container until they begin to crowd each other, will
result in poor quality transplants. The growing medium used for transplants
should have the same characteristics as the germination medium. A variety
of containers may be used for transplants. Containers should be large enough
to allow small plants to grow indoors until ready to be transplanted to
the garden. Square pots or cells 1 x 1 inch, 1.5 x 1.5 inch, or 2 to 3-inch
round containers are satisfactory. Containers should have holes in the
bottom for drainage or for uptake of water. Transplants should also receive
a maximum amount of available light for best growth. The same light system
described above may be used for transplants. "Stretching" of transplants
through weak, spindly growth indicates they are not receiving enough light.
3. Fertilization.
One application of a complete fertilizer
should be given to seedlings while they are still in germination containers.
After transplanting, plants should be fertilized once a week with a complete
fertilizer. Water-soluble house plant fertilizers, available at garden
supply stores, are convenient to use. Rates will be given on the container.
4. Temperature.
The ideal temperature for growth of
transplants should be 60-75 F during the time plants receive light and
about 5O-65 F during darkness (see Table 1). Excessive night temperatures
(too cool or too warm) will result in poor quality growth.
5. Water.
The growing medium should be kept damp.
If using a well-drained, well-aerated medium water may be applied frequently
without danger of drowning roots. If you use a heavier growing medium that
includes soil, be careful not to over-water. Enough water should be applied
to thoroughly wet the medium and allow some water to drain from the bottom
of the container.
The Recirculating-Bottom-Irrigation
germination system described above can also be used to water seedlings
after they have been transplanted to the final growing container. Again,
it is important that the medium drains well so there is sufficient air
for roots when the medium is saturated with water. The pump should operate
3-4 times daily for 1 hour each time. A water-soluble fertilizer, as mentioned
above, maybe added to the water supply. The rate should be about 1/2 that
recommended on the container.
Timely Seedling Production
Plan the seed sowing date carefully
so your transplants are ready to go into your garden on time (Table 1).
The length of time from sowing seed until plants are ready to be transplanted
depends upon the cultivar and the environment available for growing. Records
should be kept each year for efficient production and correcting past errors.
Plants that are immature should not be transplanted to the garden. Plants
that have grown too long in small containers may be stunted and will not
grow well in the garden. Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and onion seeds
should be started between Jan. 25 and Feb. 10 and transplanted to the garden
March 10-25. Generally seeds of other plants indicated in Table 1 should
be sown between March 1 and April 15 so they will be ready for the garden
after the frost free date (April 20-May 10).